A "Radhe Radhe" travels down the platform at Achhnera Junction as a train from Jaipur slows, and someone answers before the doors open. This is Braj country, where a greeting carries the name of Krishna's beloved, and the station is where the town meets. Farmers from the surrounding villages come in along the Agra–Jaipur highway to trade.
Nearby, the red sandstone of Fatehpur Sikri rises on its ridge, with Buland Darwaza at the top of its steps, and Agra's monuments sit a short ride east. Summers here are fierce, the monsoon arrives in July and winter nights turn cold. A Local Friend walks beside you, never a step ahead, from the station crowd to the Mughal courtyards.
