Morning starts on the Xiashan seafront, where mangroves rise from the mud at low tide and ships wait out in the bay. By lunch a plate of Zhanjiang chicken lands on the table with its garlic and oil dip. The afternoon belongs to the arcades and pale façades of the French era, and at night smoke curls from stalls grilling oysters over charcoal.
A short ride from downtown, Huguangyan lake fills a volcanic crater ringed by forest, while island villages keep festivals of their own. Summers are long, hot and humid, and winters are short and mild. When your plans run out, a Local Friend can pick the next stop, maybe a village feast or a ferry to an island.
