You clip into rented skis on the snowy shore of Jingyuetan, and pine forest closes in around a crescent-shaped lake. Racers in Vasaloppet China glide past on the long course, while you wobble along the short fun loop and grin at every near fall.
Back in town, other chapters wait. Movie Wonderland grew out of the city's old film studio, Puyi's former palace is now a museum, and the World Sculpture Park sets art from many countries around its lakes. Summers are warm and rainy, and winters are long, dry and freezing. When your plans run out, a Local Friend picks the next stop, maybe a snack stall on Guilin Road.





