Retired neighbors practice tai chi at dawn in the Temple of Heaven park, a short walk from the halls where emperors prayed for good harvests. History here sits inside ordinary routines. Hutong lanes still link gray courtyard homes, and a bicycle bell rings past carved wooden gates on the way to breakfast.
Beyond the palace walls, the city stretches to the factory galleries of 798, the lakes of Shichahai and the Great Wall at Mutianyu. Summers are hot and stormy, winters are cold and dry, and autumn brings clear, mild days. A Local Friend walks beside you at your own speed, happy to duck down whichever lane catches your eye.
