Straight avenues run north to south and east to west, and at a busy crossing the cyclists waiting for the light can outnumber the cars. Downtown, Chang'an Park opens off the main road with a lake, a theater and a mall tucked underground, while Century Park spreads out beneath the TV tower to the southeast.
Beyond the grid, the walled old town of Zhengding keeps its temples and pagodas a short ride north, and the Taihang Mountains rise on the western horizon. Summers are hot and rainy, and winters turn cold, dry and windy. A Local Friend can take you around their own neighborhood, from the breakfast stall they swear by to the park where everyone meets after dinner.



