In January, families from China's frozen north step off the plane into warm air, and Dadonghai's sand fills up through the Spring Festival. Summer brings south winds that push waves onto the south-facing shore, and surfboards come out at Houhai.
Beyond the beaches, Luhuitou hill looks over the city, the old town of Yacheng keeps the oldest streets in the area, and evening crowds downtown eat seafood bought live at the First Market. The weather stays hot all year, with a long wet season and a sunnier, drier winter. A Local Friend keeps the plan loose, trading a beach day for an island boat or a teahouse when the sky changes.



