Late sun turns West Lake to gold, and Leifeng Pagoda lights up on its hill while rowboats drift home across the water. Mornings bring a softer palette, with mist over the Su Causeway, willows and peach blossom in pale green and pink, and tea terraces fading into grey hills.
Away from the shore, Qinghefang's old lanes sell silk and fans, boats glide along the Grand Canal, and new towers rise beside the Qiantang River. Summers are long, hot and humid, winters are chilly and damp, and spring and autumn bring the clearest skies. A Local Friend knows when to reach the causeway before the crowds and when to stay put for the evening glow.
