Plates of Hakka stuffed tofu and Gannan small fried fish crowd a round table, and the turntable keeps spinning until every cousin has had a piece. In a region where nearly every family has Hakka roots, dinner is where news gets shared and a visitor is soon drawn in.
After the meal, the Song-era city wall runs above the Zhang and Gong rivers, a floating bridge of chained boats still carries walkers across, and Tongtian Rock hides carved Buddhas in red cliffs. Summers are long, hot and humid, and spring brings the heaviest rain. A Local Friend can show you their own corner of the old town, from the lane they grew up on to their favorite noodle shop.
