Pale gold light spreads over the river at dawn, and by afternoon the sky has turned a deep, washed blue that makes boats and bright fabrics glow. Red earth roads, green palms and wide horizons give every walk its own colour, and evenings end in orange skies that people stop to watch together.

The climate is tropical savanna: a hot rainy season from June, then cooler, drier months until May, when clear skies and softer air make long days outside easy. Plan around the sky as much as the map. A Local Friend keeps the plan flexible, so the day can change when something better turns up.