Before the dancers arrive, drums are already calling, and a street fills with people in their finest cloth for a wedding, a naming ceremony or a religious celebration. Families cook in huge shared pots, neighbours drop in unasked, and music carries late into the evening.

The weather is hot and tropical, with a long dry season and a rainy season through the middle of the year, and the far north feels drier. Mornings and evenings suit long walks, and midday asks for shade. A Local Friend tells you when to turn up early for a celebration and when to stay until the last song.