Market mornings start early, with stalls stacked high with fruit, baskets woven by hand, bright fabric and tools shaped by the person selling them. Walk a little further and the town gives way to green hills, lakes and forest, and every corner has its own crafts and songs.

The climate is warm and tropical, tempered by altitude, with two rainy seasons in the south and one in the north. The drier months suit long days outside. A Local Friend opens a door you would not have knocked on, whether it is a workshop behind the market or a family kitchen where you are asked to stay.