Waves slap against the piers of the Golden Mile before you see the water, and the next sound is surfers whooping as a good set rolls in. Behind them, the white arch of Moses Mabhida Stadium curves over the beachfront, and a short walk inland the air at Victoria Street Market smells of chili and masala.
Away from the sand, Florida Road fills old houses with cafés and bars, and the Botanic Gardens offer shade under century-old trees. Summers are hot, humid and stormy, while winters stay mild, dry and sunny. A Local Friend can open a door you would never have knocked on, like a family kitchen where the bunny chow comes with a story.
