Someone calls out "kay lekk," come and eat, and everyone settles around one wide tray of ceebu jën. Rice red with tomato, fish and vegetables in the middle, hands reaching in from every side. Tomorrow's fish comes ashore on painted pirogues at Soumbédioune and is sold right on the sand.
A ferry crosses to the old lanes of Gorée, tailors stitch late in the Médina and surfers paddle out around Ngor Island. The climate is hot and semi-arid, with sea breezes and a short rainy season from July to October. A Local Friend can bring you home to their own corner of town, maybe a Lebou quarter like Ouakam, where the neighbors know your name by lunch.



