Greetings here take their time. A hand is held a little longer, news of family comes before anything else, and neighbours drift toward the same shady yard as the afternoon heat eases. Beyond the capital the land breaks into river mouths, mangroves and low islands, and each village gathers around food, music and talk.

Weather is tropical, hot and humid all year, with a long rainy season and a dry season of dusty northern winds. Dry months suit boats and long walks, while rain turns everything greener and the roads slower. A Local Friend walks beside you, so every greeting and invitation feels like yours to answer.