Tea glasses crowd the marble tables of El Fishawy, deep in Khan el-Khalili, while friends lean in under gilded mirrors to trade the day's news. Nearby, office workers and students line up for bowls of koshari, rice, lentils and pasta under tomato sauce and crisp onions. In Cairo, a table is where plans get made and strangers turn into regulars.
Beyond the bazaar, feluccas drift along the Nile past the leafy streets of Zamalek, and Al-Azhar Park spreads its lawns above the old city. Winters are mild and sunny, summers are long and hot, and rain is rare. A Local Friend can walk you into their own neighborhood, to the corner café where the waiter already knows their order.










