A donkey stumbled into a hole in 1900 and landed in a Roman necropolis, which says a lot about this city. Men cast fishing lines off the Corniche wall beside the traffic, and a Mamluk fort stands where the ancient lighthouse once rose.
Away from the sea wall, Anfushi lines up seafood restaurants, and street griddles hiss with kebda, beef liver fried with cumin and green chili. Further east, the gardens of Montaza run down to the beach. Winters are mild and rainy, and summers are warm and humid, cooled by the sea breeze. A Local Friend can pull up a chair for you at a fish table you would never have found alone.
