Qigu wetland in winter: spoonbills at the river mouth

Renting a scooter in Tainan looks easy, but most shops want an International Driving Permit plus your home license, and many now expect a motorcycle endorsement on the permit. Permits ordered outside your home country are not accepted, and some shops refuse foreigners altogether, so try another shop if the first says…

Tainan's big night markets open on set weekdays, and many vendors move between them, so the day of the week matters more than the market name. The Garden Night Market, for example, rests early in the week and opens from Thursday on. Check the day before you set out, and arrive around 5 or 6 pm if you want stalls set…

Bus stops at Tainan Station differ by direction and the signs are easy to miss, so a bus heading the wrong way can cost you a long detour. For Anping, the tourist routes 88 and 99 leave from the stop across the road from the station, named Tainan Railway South Station. Ask at the tourist booth in the station, where…

Tainan's International Mango Festival runs from late June into July in the growing districts, such as Yujing, Zuojhen and Nanxi, with farm experiences, fruit stalls and sales. Farm activities have booked up in past editions, so reserve through the Tainan tourism site as soon as the program is posted. Plan a day for…

For a first stay, base yourself in West Central District or the central area around Tainan Station. Alleys, day markets and food spots are within walking distance, and most bus routes pass the station or Chihkan Tower. Anping suits history fans and feels like an old town, but it sits outside the center, so expect more…

Each summer, usually in July or August, Tainan stages its Summer Music Festival at Jiangjun Fishing Port on the coast north of the city, with concerts across many musical styles. It is a good excuse to pair live music with seafood in Jiangjun, Beimen and Qigu. Look at the Tainan tourism site a few weeks ahead for the…

TCRC Live House, tucked near Ximen Roundabout, is Tainan's best-known indie venue, a small dim room with weekly gigs. The line-ups mix Taiwanese independent bands with touring acts from Japan, Southeast Asia and China. Check the venue's page for the week's schedule, and arrive early on busy nights, since the room is…

The Tainan Art Museum spreads over two very different buildings. Building 1 is an Art Deco former police station from 1930, and Building 2 is a Shigeru Ban design whose pentagon roof was inspired by the royal poinciana, Tainan's official tree. One ticket covers both on the same day, so start in the old police station…