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Tips & Traps
Insider advice from Local Friends and travelers. What to do, and what to avoid, city by city.
- TipA place or a move worth it
- TrapWhat to avoid, and how
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Insider advice from Local Friends and travelers. What to do, and what to avoid, city by city.
Join RALF to share your own tips and traps
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Guesthouses in central Kabul, especially around Shahr-e Naw, can be short on reliable water, electricity and Wi-Fi, so ask before you confirm. Prices are often negotiable, particularly for longer stays. Many travelers buy a local SIM and use it as a hotspot, and a vendor operates near the Gulbahar Business Center…
Opened in 1945 as the Kabul Hotel and rebuilt in the 2000s, this garden hotel beside Zarnegar Park was long known as the Serena. Since February 2025 it has traded as the Kabul Grand Hotel, so older listings and maps may still say Serena. Book through the hotel's own website to be sure you have the right property. If…
Travel in Kabul and beyond needs a permit from the culture ministry's office, and the office is closed on Fridays and Islamic holidays. Some sites may turn you away without it, so collect it early and carry it. Avoid Ramadan and Eid weeks if your schedule is tight, since offices close and transport thins. In Ramadan…
In the days before Eid al-Fitr and Eid al-Adha, Kabul's markets fill with dried fruit, nuts, sweets and bakery goods that families buy for guests. Dry-fruit sellers in Taimani and sweet stalls in the Mandawi area are good places to browse. Eid follows the lunar calendar, and the date announced in Afghanistan has…
Foreign bank cards may not work at ATMs or banks, and where they do, withdrawals are limited. Some machines dispense only afghanis and charge a fee, though one traveler reports that the ATM at Majid Mall worked with most foreign cards. Plan to carry cash and change it at a bank or at the exchange tables outside Majid…
About 20 km west of the city, Paghman is Kabul's old summer retreat, with garden staircases, fountains and the Taq-e Zafar arch modeled on Paris's Arc de Triomphe. Walk the garden terraces, then take the mountain trails above town for views over the valley. June, August and September are dry, and hotels can arrange a…
Kabul has no ride-hailing apps, so you flag a taxi on the street and the fare is whatever you agree before the door closes. Ask your guesthouse for a typical fare for the route, then bargain politely, because foreigners are often quoted about double. Shared minibuses run fixed routes through the day and cost far less…
About an hour north of Kabul, Istalif's main street is lined with pottery shops selling glazed dishes in turquoise and deep green, a craft handed down through families. Watch a potter at work if invited, and buy a few small pieces you can carry. Shops hold more stock than customers, so polite haggling over tea is…
Palaces, government buildings, military sites and checkpoints are not to be photographed, and guards enforce this. At the Darul Aman parliament building, visitors have been let in only on condition of no photos. Ask before photographing any person and follow guards at religious sites. Spend your shots on gardens…
The tiled shrine at the foot of Television Hill is an active place of worship, with several domes and neo-Safavid tilework covered in inscriptions. Women are checked at the entrance by a female guard, and you may be asked for your travel permit, so carry it. Keep your voice low, ask before photographing anyone and…
Built under King Amanullah between 1919 and 1929 and modeled on Istanbul's Ortaköy Mosque, this yellow mosque stands on the bank of the Kabul River in the center. Look at the Italian-style stucco decoration that makes it unlike most Kabul mosques. Time your visit between prayers, dress modestly and ask before taking…
Dumpling and kebab houses around Shahr-e Naw park and Sulh Road serve mantu, steamed beef dumplings under yoghurt and dried mint, and ashak, the vegetable-filled version that suits vegetarians. Ask whether they are fresh that day, since that is when they are best, and add a plate of grilled lamb kebabs from a grill…
Smaller than before the looting years, the National Museum still rewards a slow visit. Look for the Rabatak Inscription, the statue of Kanishka the Great and the carved wooden pillars from Nuristan, then step outside to see the old royal cars parked in the grounds. Photography costs extra at the ticket desk, so decide…
Look for the griddle stalls and small bolani shops around Shahr-e Naw and the Old City lanes, where flatbread is cooked to order and folded around spiced potato, leek, pumpkin or spinach. Because it comes straight off a hot surface, it is one of the easier street snacks to try. Ask for it with a yoghurt drink or a…
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