Quema del Diablo: the 6 pm bonfires on 7 December

The giant kites of 1 November are shown in Sumpango and Santiago Sacatepéquez in Sacatepéquez department, not in the capital itself, so do not expect them at the city cemeteries. Some are displayed rather than flown, and the program for the year may appear late. Leave early, allow extra time for heavy traffic and…

Zona 10, the Zona Viva, groups hotels, restaurants and bars in one area, with the Popol Vuh and Ixchel museums and the botanical garden close by. It is an easy base for the capital, with Zona 1 a short taxi or app ride away in daytime. Ask your hotel to call your taxi at night and book a place with a reliable pickup…

The national modern art museum is named after the painter Carlos Mérida and sits inside the Finca La Aurora grounds in Zona 13, near the airport and the craft market. Opening days differ between listings, so check the ministry's page or call before you go. It pairs well with a visit to the Mercado de Artesanías on the…

Rellenitos are fried plantain dumplings filled with sweet black beans, and atol de elote is a warm, sweet corn drink. Both are everyday Guatemalan treats found at markets and street stalls. Eat the rellenitos hot, while the plantain is still crisp, choose stalls with steady turnover and ask for drinks without ice.

Jocón is a green chicken stew and hilachas a shredded beef stew, both staples of Guatemalan home cooking that traditional restaurants in the capital serve. Order them with tortillas and rice, and ask for sin picante if you want less heat, since chile often comes in the side sauce. Go at lunchtime, when kitchens are…

The Jardín Botánico in Zona 10, run by San Carlos University, keeps more than 500 plant species, with orchids, cacti and medicinal plants, inside the city. You can walk on your own or ask about guided tours. It opens on weekdays only, so plan a Monday to Friday morning and check the garden's website for the current…

The Cerrito del Carmen is a green hill at the northern edge of the historic center, crowned by a church from the early 1600s. Its gardens and trails make a gentle walk with play areas and space for pets, a quiet break from the traffic of Zona 1. Go in the morning, in daylight, and bring water. The hill is free to…

The Colón area in Zona 1 is the place locals go for piñatas, with vendors making them by hand for birthdays, Christmas and the Quema del Diablo. A small paper devil is a light, unusual souvenir if you are in town before 7 December. Go in daylight, ask the vendor how to pack it for the flight and choose paper over…