Isfahan Music Museum: instruments, often a mini concert

The Abbasi Hotel, on a side street of Chaharbagh, was built as a caravanserai under Sultan Husayn and still operates as a hotel, with old paintings and artefacts in its gardens. A rooftop restaurant overlooks the city and a traditional Iranian restaurant serves local dishes. Choose it for the building more than the…

The covered Qeysarieh Bazaar north of the royal square is free to enter, but each shop keeps its own hours and many close as the day fades. Mornings and midday are busiest and best for browsing carpets, inlay and copperware. Arrive early, compare a few stalls patiently and keep the last hour of daylight for the square…

Poolaki is a thin, coin-shaped candy made mainly in Isfahan, in flavours such as saffron, lemon and pistachio, and it melts in the mouth like toffee. For travel, look for gaz-e-ardi, the flour-dusted gaz that keeps longer and is less sweet. Sweet shops around the royal square and the bazaar stock both, so taste first…

Bedkhem Church stands on Julfa Square beside Saint Mary Church and dates from 1627, paid for by the merchant Khaje Petros. Inside, two rows of 72 paintings by Armenian artists show the life of Jesus under a gilded dome. It is smaller than the cathedral most visitors head for, so it makes a calm second stop on a Jolfa…

The Atashgah, a Sasanian fire temple complex on a hill west of the centre, rewards a climb with views across the plain. There is no paved path and the clay soil crumbles underfoot, especially after rain, so flip-flops are a bad idea. Take a taxi to the foot of the hill, wear sturdy shoes, climb in the cooler hours and…

Hasht Behesht, the Eight Heavens, is an octagonal pavilion from the 17th century, built under Shah Suleiman I on Chaharbagh Street. Inside are murals, mirror work, tilework and perforated woodwork, while tall thin wooden columns hold up its porches. Walk round to the pool behind the building for the classic view of…

Menar Jonban, a 14th-century tomb with twin brick minarets west of the centre, is famous for its shake: when the caretaker moves one minaret, the other trembles too. The staircase is closed to visitors, so only the caretaker climbs. Published demonstration times differ between guides, so ask on arrival and come early…

Soffeh Mountain rises just south of the city, and its park covers at least 100 hectares of hills with paths, restaurants and a panorama of Isfahan that is best seen at night. The hardest route up has ropes and takes 3 to 4 hours, so most visitors choose the gentler park trails or the cable car. Go between spring and…