Two moods share this small country. Along the coast, markets, mosques and temples sit side by side, and several languages drift over every street corner. Inland, the mood turns green and quiet, with rivers serving as roads and forest stretching as far as you can see.

The climate is tropical, warm and humid all year, with two rainy spells and two drier ones that decide when the trails and boats are at their best. Pack light layers for the rain and plenty of patience for the heat. A Local Friend can introduce you to their own neighbourhood, so the city feels like home for an afternoon.