From August the trade winds pick up, and kites fill the sky above the dunes and lagoon at Cumbuco. Between February and May the coast swaps wind for heavy rain, a season locals call winter, though the heat never leaves.
Back in town, Thursday means crab at the beach huts of Praia do Futuro, the Theatro José de Alencar shows off its Glasgow ironwork, and evenings drift from the Beira-Mar craft fair to the bars around Dragão do Mar. The warmth holds all year, softened by a steady sea breeze. A Local Friend keeps the plan loose, so a sudden shower becomes a long lunch and a windy afternoon becomes a trip to the lagoon.
