Morning begins with coffee and the cool cloisters of the Jesuit Block, where the country's first university took shape. By afternoon, students stretch out on the lawns of Parque Sarmiento. After dark, Güemes fills its bars and patios, and a cuarteto band starts the beat that keeps dancers going late.
Away from the center, the Capuchinos church lifts its spire over apartment towers, and the Sierras Chicas sit low on the western horizon. Summers are hot and stormy, while winters stay dry and mild with frosty nights. When your plans run out, a Local Friend picks the next stop, from a hillside town to a corner bar you would have walked past.
