Two friends meet on a Palermo corner and lean in for one quick kiss on the cheek, men included. Minutes later a gourd of mate starts its round, each person sipping through the metal straw and handing it back to whoever is serving.
Past the Obelisco and the painted houses of Caminito, the city lives in its barrios, from the antique stalls on San Telmo's cobbles to milongas where strangers share a tango long after midnight. Summers are hot and humid, winters are cool and often foggy, and spring and fall bring mild days. A Local Friend walks at your side through it all, matching your steps instead of setting them.
