On clear mornings the snowy cone of Popocatépetl floats behind the cathedral towers, and the stone streets warm fast under a high sun. In the rainy months, clouds gather and a sudden downpour rattles the tiled domes, then the sky clears and the arcades fill again with people who planned around it.
Beyond the cathedral, Talavera workshops still glaze tiles by hand, the Capilla del Rosario glows with gold, and market stalls stack cemitas high. The city stays mild all year, with dry winters and a wet season from late spring to early fall. A Local Friend can decode a mole menu, steer you through the numbered streets and read the sky for a terrace afternoon or a museum one.
