A bass line drifts from a shop doorway or a passing minibus, and it is usually the first thing you meet. Reggae was born on this island, and people sing along and dance wherever the beat lands. Behind the music, green hills climb toward the Blue Mountains and the sea is always close.
The weather is hot and humid, with cooler air in the highlands and a drier south coast. Autumn brings storm season, so keep plans loose. A Local Friend picks the next stop when your plans run out, from a roadside stall to a late evening session.
