Mornings begin on the water. A small boat slides out over shallow turquoise sea, a paddle dips into a slow jungle river, and the shoreline shifts between mangrove, palm and pale sand. Offshore, a long reef calms the waves and fills the sea with colour, while inland creeks and lagoons bring the rainforest close.

The climate is tropical, with a dry season from about February to May and rain from June to November, so plans bend with the weather. Pack light clothes and a rain layer.Days divide between sea, forest and shaded village streets, and a Local Friend turns a list of places into a day that makes sense.