History sits at the next table here. Roman ruins stand near café terraces, fortress ramparts look over the river at dusk, and a shop sign can switch between two alphabets from one block to the next. Over coffee, older neighbours tell stories that reach further back than expected.

The climate is moderate continental, with cold winters, warm summers and a hotter, drier south. Summer fills the riverside terraces and winter brings snow to the mountains. A Local Friend walks beside you instead of ahead, pointing out the layers of the past in a doorway, a menu or a song, and leaving room for the afternoon to wander.