Water keeps turning up here, even with the sea far away: a river bending past a hillside village, a mountain lake that mirrors the ridges. Castles watch over the valleys, and the forests between them make good company for long walks.

The climate is moderately continental, with four distinct seasons: warm summers on the plains and cold, snowy winters up in the mountains. Spring and early autumn suit the trails, summer suits lakeside afternoons, and winter belongs to the snow. A Local Friend shares a favourite spot and the story behind it, whether that is a quiet bend in the river or a castle wall at sunset.