Kites tug above the old runways of Tempelhofer Feld, an airfield turned park so wide the sky seems to start at your feet. Then the city shrinks to small things. A little green man in a hat blinks on a crossing light, a mural fades along the East Side Gallery, and the silver ball of the TV Tower flashes between two rooftops.
Past the big sights, Berlin is a patchwork of neighborhoods, each with its own Sunday routine, from karaoke crowds in Mauerpark to forest paths up Teufelsberg. Summers are warm and long, winters cold and gray. A Local Friend can lead you to the bench or corner bar they love most and tell you how it became theirs.
