Celebrations spill out of doors here. Long tables are carried into courtyards, music drifts over the wall, and a wedding or seasonal holiday can pull in half the street, with someone always insisting you take one more helping. Between gatherings, the land opens into old trade-route towns, tiled domes and wide desert skies.

The climate is continental and mostly dry, with hot summers and cold winters, so spring and early autumn suit wandering best. Pack for sun, bring a scarf for the evenings, and say yes to invitations. A Local Friend picks the next stop when your plans run out.