Climb north and the air thins, the nights cool, and the plains fall away like a patchwork. Forested mountains roll on, villages sit along the ridges, and a sweater suddenly makes sense. Head back down and the mood turns busy, with crowded streets, grilled food at every corner and warm sea within reach.

The climate is tropical, with a cool, dry season around the new year, a hot spell before the rains and then green, rainy months. The north runs cooler than the coasts. Bring layers for the hills, sandals for the rest, and a Local Friend who keeps the plan flexible so the day can change.