Red express buses and yellow local ones fan out across a flat basin, and a single metro line arcs from the western train station to the old downtown. Ride east and the streets end at the foot of Mudeungsan, where buses drop hikers at the trailheads. Walking is easy, since most streets stay level and the mountain works as a compass.
Beyond the first sights, Yangnim-dong keeps missionary houses under old trees, and the Asia Culture Center tucks its halls below the old downtown. Spring and autumn bring clear, dry days, while July and August are hot and wet. A Local Friend keeps the day loose enough to swap a summit for a long tteokgalbi lunch when clouds roll in.



