Women in rubber aprons gut, slice and sell the morning catch along the Jagalchi waterfront, calling out to anyone who pauses by their tanks. Inland, Gukje Market grew from wartime stalls into a maze of kitchen tools, fabric and secondhand finds. At a corner cart, a vendor splits a ssiat hotteok and packs it with brown sugar and seeds.
Beyond the old port, swimmers crowd Haeundae and Gwangalli in summer, and the painted houses of Gamcheon climb a slope above the harbor. Summers are hot, humid and rainy, while winters stay mild and mostly dry. A Local Friend can decode a handwritten menu, the metro map and the mood of a market lane, then point you to the right stall.



