Late sun turns the shallow Gulf the color of brass along the Dammam Corniche, and the white spiral tower on Marjan Island glows against a sky gone pink. Families spread out on the lawns as the lamps come on, and soon the water fades from gold to slate.
Inland, the souqs of Al Faisaliah keep an older, walkable feel, Ithra's steel-wrapped stones rise near the spot where Saudi oil first flowed, and Tarout Island keeps a castle on an ancient hill. Summers are long and fiercely hot, while winters bring mild days and the odd rainstorm. A Local Friend knows when to use the cool early hours and when to stay on the Corniche until the sea breeze arrives.
