The day opens in pale gold, and the sky stays huge and clear above sand, rock and the low lines of old oasis towns. By late afternoon the light turns copper, then rose, and the first stars arrive sharp and close. Palm groves and long coastlines each wear their own colour, and people gather outdoors once the heat fades.

The climate is mostly hot desert, with very hot summers, mild winters and cooler highlands in the southwest. A Local Friend tells you when to head out at dawn and when to linger through a long evening.