Climb a few hundred metres and the air turns thinner and cooler, with ridgelines folding away in every direction. Valleys between the mountains hold small farms, river towns and the kind of quiet that makes conversations last. Meals are built around shared dishes and a host who keeps your bowl full.

The climate is continental, with hot, humid summers when the rains arrive, cold dry winters, and mild spring and autumn days between. Pack for the season. With a Local Friend, you learn when to go early and when to stay a little longer.