The wide, brown Cisadane River slides past Pasar Lama, broad enough to carry a fleet of dragon boats. A few steps from its bank, the view shrinks to red paper lanterns crowding the eaves of Boen Tek Bio, steam rising from a pot of laksa, and carved doors on old Peranakan shophouses.
Beyond the old quarter, glass towers rise over Alam Sutera, and in Kampung Bekelir whole lanes of houses wear murals in crayon colors. The city stays hot and humid all year, with the heaviest rain from November to April. A Local Friend can lead you to the corner they love most, maybe a riverside bench or a favorite laksa stall, and tell you how it became theirs.
