On a clear winter morning, a low blue line of Arunachal hills floats above the far bank of the Brahmaputra, so wide here it looks almost still. The city sits flat on the plain, and people stroll the long flood dyke to watch the hills fade in and out of the haze.
Away from the bank, tea gardens grow right between the neighborhoods, a white Jagannath temple rises on the bypass road, and the Bogibeel Bridge carries trains across to the north bank. Summers are hot and very wet, while the dry, mild winters bring the clearest views. A Local Friend can sit you down at a family table you would never have found, where lunch starts with khar.
