Monsoon clouds sit low over the Deccan hills from June, and waterfalls spill down the gorge below the painted caves of Ajanta. By winter the air turns crisp and dry, right for climbing Daulatabad Fort or walking the long garden of Bibi Ka Maqbara.
Back in town, locals shop for fruit and cloth in the old lanes of Gulmandi. Himroo shawls, a silk and cotton weave, still come off local looms, and naan qalia shows up at weddings. The climate is hot and semi-arid, with rain from June to September and mild, sunny days from October to February. A Local Friend keeps the plan loose, so a cloudy morning becomes a cave day and a clear one a fort climb.






