Every autumn, before the drums start at Durgabari, the district magistrate sends a written report on the puja to Tripura's former royal family. Across the road, Ujjayanta Palace floats white above its lakes, now the state museum, with the orange spires of the Jagannath temple beside it. Kings planned these streets, and the city still keeps their habits.
Beyond the palace, Battala Market fills with fish and greens, Tripuri kitchens cook with berma, a pungent fermented fish, and the Agartala Book Fair draws winter crowds. Summers are long, hot and wet, while winter is short, mild and dry. A Local Friend walks beside you through the old lanes, so the stories surface as you go.
