Shop awnings crowd the Main Bazaar, and the street bends toward an old clock tower that has watched over its errands for generations. A few steps away, the Punjab Khadi Mandal, one of the oldest buildings in town, still sells hand-spun cloth from the premises Gandhi once visited.
Past the bazaar, the railway cuts by Khurdpur, and country lanes run out to Alawalpur, which tradition credits to Adam Khan's brother. Around the Doaba, concrete airplanes and footballs crown the rooftops, each one a working water tank. Summers are hot, monsoon rain comes in July, and winter mornings turn cool and foggy. A Local Friend can walk you into their own lane, where the neighbors stop to say hello.
