Cotton bales once filled the market yards here, waiting for a narrow-gauge train to haul them toward faraway mills. Today scooters squeeze through the carved stone arch of the Dulha Darwaza, and lanes named after the nawabs who built them run past old mosques and temples.
Outside the walls, a stone pavilion stands in the Hauz Katora tank, and twin-town Paratwada keeps the busier bazaars. The Satpura hills rise to the north, toward the ridge fort of Gawilgarh. Summers are fierce, the monsoon soaks the fields from June to September, and winters stay mild and dry. A Local Friend reads the menu, the map and the mood for you, right up to the road into the hills.
