Morning belongs to the water here. Ferries cross the harbour while skyscrapers catch the morning light, small boats rock in quiet coves, and a short ride away the shore gives way to green hills and islands where the city noise fades into waves. Water ties the city, the countryside and the dinner table together.

The climate is humid subtropical, with hot, steamy summers, mild winters and sunny, breezy autumns that suit long walks along the shore. Pack light layers and an umbrella. A Local Friend can tell you when to go early to beat the crowds and when to linger over tea until the lights come on across the water.