Huge mountain ridges rise behind every valley, and then your eye drops to the small things: a carved window frame, a thread of smoke over a farmhouse, a neighbour who asks where you are headed. The land is big and steep, yet daily life happens close to the ground, in terraced fields and on footpaths.
The weather follows the altitude, from warm and humid in the south to cool central valleys and cold, snowy heights, with heavy rain in summer. Spring and autumn suit walking best. A Local Friend shares a favourite spot and the story behind it, so a quiet bend in the path becomes the moment you remember.