In March, Novruz turns streets and courtyards into one big gathering. Tables fill with sweets, neighbours drop by to wish each other a good year, and that open-door mood lasts all year, from long meals to evenings by the Caspian Sea.
The climate changes a lot from place to place, with warm, mostly dry lowlands, a wetter south and snowy mountains in winter. Spring and autumn are easiest for sightseeing, while summer can be hot. A Local Friend tells you when to go early and when to linger, so a festival afternoon or a mountain road gets the time it deserves.
