Dinner is rarely a solo affair here. A table fills with small plates, bread gets passed along, and strangers turn into friends over a second round of something hot to drink. Outside, old walled streets and a long sea coast keep the conversation going well after the plates are cleared.
The north follows a Mediterranean pattern, with mild rainy winters and hot, dry summers, while the south turns to desert. Spring and autumn make the easiest seasons for wandering between coast, towns and dunes. Your Local Friend can sit down with you at a table you would not have found yourself, then explain every dish as it arrives.