Green hills climb straight up from the Atlantic, and the higher you walk, the wider the view grows, with forest folding into forest and the sea shining far below. Music drifts from open doorways, and every stop comes with a greeting and a story.

The climate is tropical and warm all year, with rains in the middle of the year, a drier stretch from about November, and the most rain along the coast. A Local Friend keeps the plan flexible, so when a downpour passes or a better idea turns up, the day simply changes direction.