You step through the carved gate of the Kasbah of the Udayas, and the lanes inside turn white and cobalt blue. A few turns later you reach a terrace over the mouth of the Bou Regreg, with Salé across the water and surfers bobbing off the beach below.
Past the old walls, carpet sellers line the Rue des Consuls and storks nest on the ruins of the Chellah. Summers are warm and dry with an Atlantic breeze, and winters are mild and bring most of the rain. When your list runs dry, a Local Friend knows where the afternoon should go next, from a quiet café terrace to a corner of town you had never heard of.



