Olives rise in glossy pyramids in the souks of Habous, beside stalls of leather slippers, brass lanterns and trays of gazelle horn pastries. Downtown, the Central Market still sells fish and flowers under its dome, and inside the Hassan II Mosque thousands of craftsmen left their mark in carved wood, plaster and zellige.
Away from the big sights, this is a working city of Art Deco blocks, late cafés in Maârif and an ocean road at Ain Diab where families stroll at sunset. The Atlantic keeps winters mild and wet and summers warm and breezy. A Local Friend reads the souk, the tram map and the mood of the street for you, so you know which stall deserves a stop.




